Numerous temples and shrines attest to the region’s long history, including Manpukuji—a Chinese-style Zen temple founded by the monk Ingen, who is often called the father of sencha. With generations of tea culture everywhere in evidence, a walk through Uji’s landscape can aptly be called “a walk through 800 years of tea history.” Across the Uji region, the history and culture of tea production have shaped the natural setting. The land is divided into tea fields, tea factories, and wholesaler districts, each with a distinctive character. The fields themselves form sweeping, verdant vistas that curve across the foothills.
Sometimes referred to as a porridge, zosui is a rice soup that is typically made with vegetables, meat and other ingredients. In Nishi-Awa, zosui is made with buckwheat seeds instead of rice. This innovation is said to have come from samurai defeated in the Genpei War who fled to Nishi-Awa and longed for Kyoto and the meals with rice they’d left behind.
A specialty of the area is dekomawashi, a skewer of potato, konnyaku, and hard-pressed tofu that is roasted in the fireplace. Foods made from wild game are also common. As part of your trip to Nishi-Awa, sit at the hearth of a charming traditional home and enjoy local foods over a friendly chat with locals, an experience nourishing for both the body and the mind.
‘Ayu Zoni’, which uses natural ayu caught in the ‘Takatsu River’, is a local dish that is eaten at many homes during the New Year. It is written in an ancient document that this ayu was served as a cuisine for entertainment for lord Masuda, who served during the Warring States period, and can be eaten with a reproduction dish as a ‘medieval food’.
Ochiai, Sarukai, and Nishinosho are among the Nishi-Awa villages that climb up the mountainsides. Renowned Japanologist Alex Kerr describes how this area was considered special, not unlike a Shangri-La, even hundreds of years ago.
Pickled mackerel, known as saba no heshiko, is made by fermenting fresh mackerel in salt and rice bran for close to a year. This traditional method of preservation was used after an especially successful catch to store the excess mackerel before it spoiled. With eight times as much glutamic acid as fresh mackerel, pickled mackerel has a unique savory flavor filled with umami. You may find yourself so addicted to this delectable pickle, you ask for second and third helpings of rice to accompany it in the Japanese style!
There are many ways to prepare the abundant seafood of Wakasa Bay to best bring out its natural flavors. Mackerel narezushi made with pickled mackerel is said to have been the forerunner of modern sushi such as mackerel sushi, a standard dish that no festival in Obama or Kyoto would be complete without. Wakasa Obama kodai sasazuke is prepared by pickling small sea bream fillets with salt and vinegar in a small cedar cask. Another specialty of the area is Wakasa grilled tilefish, a highly sought-after fish with tender meat and soft scales.
The rice terraces of Tagarasu create a rustic scene surrounded by the sea and mountains. At every turn, the coastline offers new panoramas of natural beauty.
Harvest wakame seaweed, catch octopuses with a trap net, or go fishing for sea bream and clean and eat it yourself. You can also learn how to make your own set of chopsticks or participate in a local cooking workshop. There are lots of things to do and learn that will give you a new appreciation for life in a fishing village and the blessings of Wakasa Bay.
Named after Tango, an old province of Japan, Tango barazushi is made in a wooden box. Various ingredients—including mackerel crumbles, which are unique to this dish—are arranged on top of sushi rice. Traditionally, Tango barazushi is eaten on special occasions, and the rice is divided with a wooden spatula and eaten as a family.
