‘Ayu Zoni’, which uses natural ayu caught in the ‘Takatsu River’, is a local dish that is eaten at many homes during the New Year. It is written in an ancient document that this ayu was served as a cuisine for entertainment for lord Masuda, who served during the Warring States period, and can be eaten with a reproduction dish as a ‘medieval food’.
The visual appeal of Onomichi has been likened to “a miniature garden straight from the middle ages.” It is a city where historic temples and shrines—some containing national treasures—line the winding streets, and whose higher slopes give views that look out across the sprawling coastal landscape. Notable artistic figures have also found Onomichi’s scenery captivating: novelist Shiga Naoya (1883-1971) stayed at a residence not far from the LOG, and director Ozu Yasujiro’s 1953 masterpiece Tokyo Story begins here. In fact, the town’s aspect has changed very little from the views recorded in the film’s opening scene.
Pickled mackerel, known as saba no heshiko, is made by fermenting fresh mackerel in salt and rice bran for close to a year. This traditional method of preservation was used after an especially successful catch to store the excess mackerel before it spoiled. With eight times as much glutamic acid as fresh mackerel, pickled mackerel has a unique savory flavor filled with umami. You may find yourself so addicted to this delectable pickle, you ask for second and third helpings of rice to accompany it in the Japanese style!
There are many ways to prepare the abundant seafood of Wakasa Bay to best bring out its natural flavors. Mackerel narezushi made with pickled mackerel is said to have been the forerunner of modern sushi such as mackerel sushi, a standard dish that no festival in Obama or Kyoto would be complete without. Wakasa Obama kodai sasazuke is prepared by pickling small sea bream fillets with salt and vinegar in a small cedar cask. Another specialty of the area is Wakasa grilled tilefish, a highly sought-after fish with tender meat and soft scales.
The rice terraces of Tagarasu create a rustic scene surrounded by the sea and mountains. At every turn, the coastline offers new panoramas of natural beauty.
Harvest wakame seaweed, catch octopuses with a trap net, or go fishing for sea bream and clean and eat it yourself. You can also learn how to make your own set of chopsticks or participate in a local cooking workshop. There are lots of things to do and learn that will give you a new appreciation for life in a fishing village and the blessings of Wakasa Bay.
Named after Tango, an old province of Japan, Tango barazushi is made in a wooden box. Various ingredients—including mackerel crumbles, which are unique to this dish—are arranged on top of sushi rice. Traditionally, Tango barazushi is eaten on special occasions, and the rice is divided with a wooden spatula and eaten as a family.
Pickling fish or vegetables in rice bran is called nukazuke and is a traditional preservation method in Japan. When made using mackerel, nukazuke is known as heshiko in Kyoto by the Sea.
In Kyoto by the Sea, enjoy the varied scenery that shows how people have lived harmoniously with nature. Two of the finest examples are the Amanohashidate sandbar, which is one of the Three Views of Japan. Another feature to watch for is the fusion of Japanese traditions with those from the West, such as the brick buildings of Maizuru’s former naval base and silk heritage areas like the Former Bito Family House on Chirimen Street (chirimen is a high-quality kimono silk) in the town of Yosano.
Learning how to make new food is a great way to immerse yourself in local culture, and visitors can try their hand at making Tango barazushi or nigirizushi (hand-pressed sushi) with freshly caught fish.